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How to Store Yarn: Common Mistakes and Better Ways

Eight common mistakes when you store yarn, from mixed fibres and damp to sun, moths and stacking, plus simple systems and accessories that keep your stash tidy, protected and easy to use.

Pile of multicoloured wool skeins in shades of green, blue and purple

Knowing how to store yarn well is not only a question of looks: it is the basis for knitting or crocheting without interruptions, looking after the fibre and avoiding waste. When yarn tangles, gets damp or gets mixed up with no system, the project slows down and the quality of the finished piece can suffer. In this article we go through the most common mistakes people make when they store yarn and give you practical fixes you can apply today in your own craft corner.

The first cause of a messy stash is not separating by fibre and weight. Natural wools, acrylics and blends behave differently with damp, light and rubbing. If they share one basket, it is easy to confuse them and to carry problems from one project to the next. On top of that, badly wound balls tend to collapse in on themselves, creating inner knots that are hard to undo later.

Contents

  1. Why yarn gets disorganised
  2. Eight common mistakes when you store yarn, and how to avoid them
  3. Storage methods that work
  4. Accessories that make a difference

Why yarn gets disorganised

A second cause is storing yarn in damp places or in direct sunlight. Damp can encourage mould in natural fibres, while ultraviolet light degrades dyes and weakens fibres over time. Putting balls straight on the floor or against cold walls multiplies these risks.

Finally, the lack of a rotation and recording system means the oldest balls get forgotten at the back while we always use the newest ones. Some end up deteriorating without ever being used, and we lose track of colours and dye lots, which matters especially when a garment needs several balls from the same dyeing.

Eight common mistakes when you store yarn, and how to avoid them

1. Mixing fibres, weights and colours without a system

One of the commonest mistakes is storing merino wool, cotton, acrylic and blends together. Each fibre behaves differently: cotton is heavy and can squash the balls beneath it; wool needs to breathe; acrylic tends to build up static and attract fluff. The ideal is to separate by category: natural, synthetic and blends. Within each group, sort by weight (fingering, DK, worsted, bulky) and by colour so you can find what you need quickly.

Mixing colours without protection can also cause dye transfer, especially in damp conditions. Use breathable fabric bags or boxes with dividers to keep each family of balls apart. Labelling each group with its weight and fibre will save you time and errors when you start a new project.

2. Keeping yarn on the floor or against a wall

The floor and cold walls are condensation points. You may not notice it, but damp rises and can get into natural fibres. Over time that encourages mould and weakens the yarn. The solution is simple: use shelves, stackable boxes or raised baskets. Leave a few centimetres between the balls and the wall so air can circulate.

If your home runs damp, check the inside of the boxes from time to time. Some people put a sachet of silica gel, or a piece of chalk wrapped in cloth, in the box to help absorb moisture, but remember to replace it often. Ventilation is a big help: open the window of your craft room for a few minutes each day, and if the damp is persistent, a small dehumidifier in the cupboard may be worth considering.

3. Not rotating your stock: forgetting the old balls

It is tempting to use the new balls and leave the old ones at the back. But fibres age too: they lose elasticity, they matt and they can pick up smells. Apply the FIFO system (first in, first out) in your own craft room. Put the oldest balls at the front and the new ones behind, so you use them in order and avoid building up deteriorated material.

Keeping a simple record, even a notebook or a note on your phone, with the date of purchase and the project each ball is intended for, helps you prioritise. If a ball has been stored for more than a year, check it: it may need an airing, or it may have to be thrown away if it shows signs of damp.

4. Leaving yarn exposed to sun, dust or pests

Direct sunlight is the enemy of colour and of fibre. Balls left exposed for weeks can fade and become brittle. The same goes for dust: it settles between the strands and then passes on to the garment. Keep your balls in closed cupboards, boxes with lids or fabric bags. Be careful with tightly sealed plastic bags: they do not let the fibre breathe, and if the yarn is even slightly damp, or the bag sits somewhere with big temperature swings, moisture can build up inside. A well-closed box does keep moths out, so it is a trade-off: if you use one, pack only clean, completely dry yarn.

Moths find wool a feast. To discourage them, some people place sachets of lavender or cedar near their yarn, and it is wise to check regularly for holes or signs of insects. If you find moths, isolate the affected balls straight away and clean the area thoroughly.

5. Letting the ball roll or unwind with no control

When a ball rolls along the table or unwinds with nothing to stop it, knots and waste appear. A loose ball can also fall on the floor and pick up fluff or dirt. The solution is to use a spinning yarn holder or a yarn bowl that keeps the ball in place and lets the yarn come out at an even tension. If you work straight from the ball, secure the end with a stitch marker or a piece of ribbon so it does not get lost.

It is also useful to wind balls evenly before you store them. A badly wound ball takes up more space and tends to collapse. Take a few minutes to rewind them with a ball winder or by hand, with gentle but firm tension. If you are not sure which holder suits you, our guide to how to choose a yarn holder explains the options.

6. Stacking too high or without support

Towers of balls are unstable and can fall, mixing everything up. The weight of the upper layers also deforms the balls underneath, especially if the yarn is bulky. Limit the height of piles to two or three balls and put the heavier ones at the bottom. If you use boxes, do not overload them: leave room so the balls are not compressed.

Check the state of boxes and shelves from time to time. A sagging shelf or a broken box can be the start of a disaster. Safety matters too: avoid stacking in walkways where you could trip.

7. Not separating new, opened or returned material

When you buy new balls, open them to start a project or put back one that did not work out, it is easy for everything to end up jumbled. Set up separate zones: one for unopened balls, one for those in use and a third for those that need checking (for example, if you suspect damp or they have been exposed). That way you avoid contaminating good material, and you always know what you have available.

If a ball has been in contact with chemicals, oils or dirt, remove it at once. Do not store it with the others even if it looks clean: it could transfer smells or residues.

8. Ignoring the conditions where you store it

Temperature and relative humidity affect how well fibres keep. A place that is too warm and dry can make some natural fibres brittle; one that is too damp encourages mould. The ideal is a cool, dry, ventilated space away from direct heat. Also avoid storing yarn next to cleaning products, paints or solvents. Their fumes can soak into the fibre and then release smells as you knit.

Storage methods that work

Now that you know the mistakes, here is how to store yarn effectively. There is no single solution, but there are principles that work:

  • Sort by project: if you have several projects on the go, group the balls for each one in a separate bag or box. That way you do not mix colours or waste time searching.
  • Use a labelling system: a label with the fibre, colour, weight and date of purchase helps you rotate and quickly identify what you need.
  • Store upright: balls stood on end take up less space and deform less than stacked ones. Boxes with dividers or baskets with compartments work well.
  • Protect with breathable bags: fabric or fine mesh bags let air through and keep dust out. Use sealed plastic only for yarn you know is completely dry.
  • Check each season: when the seasons change, take a little time to go through your yarn, discard anything damaged and reorganise.

If you also work with several strands at once, as in colorwork, keeping each colour on its own bobbin or in its own holder prevents tangles. Bobbins keep strands apart and let you change colour without fuss, and our guides on stranded colorwork knitting and Fair Isle knitting mistakes show how.

Accessories that make a difference

At Mota & Nudo we design accessories to make storing and working with yarn easy and pleasant. A “Dúo” spinning yarn holder keeps the ball in place and turns smoothly as you work, so you get fewer tugs and knots. The “Abrazo” yarn bowl is for those who like to work with the ball sitting still on the table: the cake stays put and the strand runs through its spiral guide. For colorwork projects, the “Color Dúo” bobbin system keeps each colour in order and in view.

If you want everything to hand, a project bag keeps your project yarn and tools together, and a hook organizer keeps the hooks themselves in order. And to keep track of rows, a row counter or a needle and swatch gauge are quiet helpers that prevent mistakes. Browse the whole range in our yarn holders collection and see how a small change can transform the way you work. If you want a wider view of what is worth owning, our guide to crochet accessories goes through it by craft.

Learn more: for general advice on washing, drying and looking after wool, see the Woolmark care guide. It is written for finished wool garments, not for yarn storage in particular.

From the Mota & Nudo workshop in Torremolinos, where we design and 3D-print our accessories: if you have questions about setting up your craft corner, write to us. Explore our yarn holders and organizers and find the accessory that suits the way you work. Better Together.

Frequently asked questions

How do I stop yarn tangling when I put it away?

The key is to wind it evenly and keep it somewhere it cannot roll or be squashed. Use boxes with dividers or individual fabric bags. If you have lots of balls, stand them upright and do not pile them too high. It also helps to secure the loose end with a stitch marker or a piece of ribbon so it does not come undone and tangle with the others.

Can I keep yarn in plastic bags?

It is not ideal for long-term storage. Plastic does not let the fibre breathe, and if the yarn is even slightly damp, or the temperature swings, condensation can form and encourage damp and mould. Breathable fabric bags, cardboard boxes with ventilation holes or baskets are safer choices. If you do use plastic, pack only yarn that is completely dry, do not leave it sealed airtight for long periods and check the contents often.

How often should I check my stored yarn?

A quick look every few months and a closer check when the seasons change is a sensible routine. Look for signs of damp, mould, moths or fading. If you find an affected ball, take it away at once so it does not spread to the others. Regular checks prevent bigger losses.

What should I do if a ball of yarn gets wet?

Do not put it away damp. Let it dry in the shade, somewhere ventilated and out of direct sun. Once it is dry, check that it has no mould or musty smell. If it was very wet, the fibre may have lost some of its softness; in that case, use it for projects that do not need a polished finish, or throw it away if it has deteriorated.

How can I store yarn if I have very little space?

Use the vertical space with shelves or stackable boxes. Hanging fabric bags or baskets that slide under the bed or into a wardrobe also work. Another option is to keep only the yarn for your current project to hand and the rest in labelled boxes in a cupboard. What matters is to keep fibres separate and to avoid damp.